Saturday, February 13, 2010

Death Valley Not Quite So Dry This Year...


Blogging from the road! There is actually some web access in Death Valley...slow, sensitive, moody, but it works, sort of. I'm out here with nearly three dozen students and volunteers, experiencing an unusually wet climate (correction: "weather", see the comments) by Death Valley standards. They've received a year's worth of precipitation (~2 inches!) in about three week's time. Most of the dirt roads are out of commission, and some of the paved roads are still impassable as well (Artist's Drive and Dante's View). Still, we have found plenty to do.

There are certainly some unusual sights for Death Valley: morning dew soaking our camp in the morning, a bit of fog in the early morning, but best of all: a flowing river and a huge lake!

The Amargosa River drains a huge region of western Nevada, but is generally dry most of the time except along a few precious stretches where ground water is forced to the surface. This year it is raging torrent (ok, a babbling brook) all across the bottom of the Death Valley graben. One could almost float an inner tube in it.

The lake covers a fair portion of the ~100 square mile saltpan. Although it is large, it probably is no more than a foot or so deep, and will undoubtedly dry up in coming months as the weather warms up. It provides a beautiful foreground for viewing the snow-capped peaks of the Panamint Mountains.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Not Gloating, but...Part II

Let's see...record snowfall in Washington, D.C. and Baltimore...it must be field trip season in California! We leave tomorrow on a five-day trip to see the most geologically fabulous national park in the country: Death Valley. Conditions are expected to be clear and sunny, with highs in the upper 70's and lows in the upper 40's.

This is not to say that all is flowers and sunshine in the state. Southern California has been hit by a series of very wet storms in the last few weeks, and the huge burned out area of Angeles National Forest has had a big problem with mudflows and mass wasting that has damaged dozens of homes. And despite all the rain and snow in our state, the drought is not yet a distant memory. California's population has reached the point that even with normal precipitation, we barely have enough water to meet our needs, and the farmers are still hurting.

Still, this is an incredibly pleasant time of year to visit Death Valley. The region received several inches of rain in recent weeks, and the flowers should be beautiful (in late March and April, actually). We've had trips that included horrific duststorms, snow, rain, and flashfloods. But mostly it is nice, and the night-time skies are brilliant with stars (the Zodiacal light is especially visible in the dry desert environment). I especially enjoy walking out from our campsite onto the Death Valley Sand Dunes at night; it is a fascinating environment in the dark, with the ghostly dunes and uncertain horizons.

Death Valley has the broadest spectrum of rocks of any national park I can think of. Except for the Archean, all the major periods, eras and eons are represented, including a stratigraphic column that is more than 5 miles thick (compared to 2 or 3 miles at Grand Canyon) reaching across 1.7 billion years. Numerous examples of volcanism, folding and faulting can easily be observed. And for the geomorphologists, there is a rich collection of alluvial fans, playas, horst and grabens, and salt pans. For the photographers, it is paradise.

There is a spotty history of wi-fi coverage in the park, so posts may be spotty for the next week, but I'll try to keep in touch. Seriously though, to my friends back east, stay warm and safe in the storms.

The photo is the panorama from Zabriskie Point, with Manly Beacon just left of center, and the Panamint Mountains in the far distance. From the summit of the Panamints at Telescope Peak to the bottom of Death Valley at Badwater, the elevation difference is more than 11,000 feet. The sedimentary rocks in the foreground were deposited in a fault graben that predated Death Valley, in Miocene and Pliocene time, around 5-13 million years ago.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Movie Geo-Analysis: The Incredible Western Journey of Bret Maverick

If you are a teacher, you know that one of the chores of an otherwise fulfilling career is the massive pile of grading which must be done. I swear sometimes I am narcoleptic or ADD, because if I sit in a quiet room with a stack of papers needing to be reviewed, I will be asleep in minutes. I have to have a distraction. As such, there are about three dozen movies on my favorites list that I can watch over and over while grading. Since I know the plot, I don't have to devote my entire attention to the movie, and so the grading eventually gets done.

Unless a movie like Maverick comes on, the 1994 version with a pre-completely crazy Mel Gibson, Jodie Foster and James Garner. Don't get me wrong. I love the movie. But it has the most interesting geographic itinerary of almost any movie I've ever seen.

Now, most of you know that movies like the Indiana Jones series, the James Bond movies, and the Bourne trilogy are well-grounded in their geography. Spielberg puts a little red line on a map along with flying airplanes to show where his characters are. The others label the latest exotic locale on the screen. Since the Maverick story was not so rooted in the place, they didn't do anything like that, but by carefully watching the background of the movie scenes, I have been able to discern that Bret Maverick and his co-stars completed one of the most epic of western US journeys in history. I've tried to map the approximate path they followed on the GoogleEarth image above. What they did was almost superhuman, given the transportation technology of their time!

If you are not a Maverick fan, you are forgiven for not reading any further. If you are, enjoy. If you haven't seen the movie, check it out, but spoilers lie ahead.

The movie opens with a hanging scene, but it is out of chronological order, and so will be dealt with later. The main action for the first 40 minutes of the movie take place in the desert town of Crystal River, but the cliffs (Mesozoic sedimentary rocks) and the presence of a huge lake instead of a river suggests the Glen Canyon region. The lake wasn't there in the 1800's, but we could suggest that the town could have been a stand-in for the village of Hite, Utah, which was immersed in the waters of Lake Powell when the dam was built in the early 1960's. The town was established in the early 1800's as one of the few river ferry crossings on the Colorado River. Lees Ferry, a bit farther downstream, is another possibility. Indeed, the next scenes could bear this out.

The runaway stagecoach is one of the more memorable set pieces of the entire movie. Maverick does an Indiana Jones-style ride underneath the stage coach, and then a John Wayne-esque jump onto the horse team to stop the stage at the brink of a vertical cliff over a raging river. Welcome to the Vermilion Cliffs (in the background), and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado! They are at the upper end near the aforementioned Lees Ferry, where river rafting trips start down the river. As steep and deep as the canyon seems in the photo, this is the shallow part of Grand Canyon. Maverick's life was saved by the geology; if the canyon rim was composed of anything besides Kaibab Limestone, he would have plummeted down the cliff and the movie ended prematurely. The limestone weathers in the arid climate into a spiky surface that provides good handholds. Sandstone or shale would have provided no traction at all.

What follows must be one of the greatest untold stories in the annals of the American west: these three people, their stage driver dead, supplies lost, made a 400 mile journey through the hottest, driest landscape on the North American continent. It's not clear their precise pathway, but the shortest route would have taken them across the most desolate part of the Basin and Range Province, right through Death Valley, and on to the north end of the Owens Valley. What hardships they must have endured! The privation, the misery, the thirst, the starvation! And yet they arrived at their next movie scene with a complete (alive) team of horses, and hardly a hair out of place on their heads.

It was here that they met a wagon train of missionary settlers who had been robbed. The women were, like the Donners a few decades earlier, apparently stranded on the east side of the Sierra Nevada. The Sierras are an imposing barrier to east-west travel; even today there are only a few paved roads crossing the crest, and in the movie they are next to the most rugged stretch of high peaks, the Palisades Crest, at over 14,000 feet high. They're in big trouble! But our heroes set off on a journey to wreak God's vengeance upon the heathen raiders. They ride 60 miles south with no supplies, tracking the brigands, finally cornering them near Whitney Portal, at the base of the highest peak in the lower 48 states (Mt. Whitney is the high towering peak in the background). After a shootout where all the bad guys get shot in the hand, they march the prisoners 60 miles back north to the wagon train.

Then...the Indians "attack". In Bishop. In full feather headdress and war paint and all that. Maverick actually knows them, and they are dressed up for something else, so he goes with them on an epic journey across the High Sierra (the lowest pass is about 10,000 feet) to Yosemite Valley, a distance of around 100 miles at a minimum over rugged terrain. The native people of the Sierra and western Basin and Range are the Miwok and the Paiutes, neither of which used feather headdresses, and they lived in bark structures or wikiups, not tepees like the Great Plains tribes. It turns out the Indians are putting on a show for a visiting Russian dignitary traveling with a retinue and fancy wagon (wonder how they got it into Yosemite Valley in the 1880's?). The beautiful granite monolith of Half Dome can be seen in the backdrop, especially the scene where Maverick, dressed as a sick Indian, supposedly gets shot. That scene was shot from the vicinity of Washburn Point, a less crowded destination than nearby Glacier Point. Maverick gets the money his friend owes him and sets out again.

At this point, the geography gets a bit muddled. Maverick is supposedly headed north to the big poker game, but he seems lost, because he is 150 miles south, back at Whitney Portal, when he is ambushed by the bad guys. They take him to the middle of a dry lake bed which I assume is in the Mojave Desert, based on the relatively gentle terrain surrounding the lake in the distance: maybe Silver Lake, or Searles, or Bristol? In any case, what is an old oak tree doing in the middle of a dry lake in the desert? Did the bad guys haul it out there? Oh well, in any case they took him a minimum of tens, maybe a hundred miles to find the right tree to hang him from. Inefficient bad guys if you ask me.

And now the other epic western journey for the ages! Four groups and individuals (the bad guys, Coop and Annabelle, Maverick, and the Russian) all make the trek from the eastern Sierra Nevada and Mojave Desert some 700 miles north across rugged and inhospitable terrain through Oregon to the Columbia River near Portland. The Paddlewheel Steamer is floating around Beacon Rock, an eroded volcanic vent that stands 850 feet above the river. For all the paddlewheeling, the boat never seems to move more than a mile or two from Beacon Rock. Was it treading water. Who knows?

So there you have it, a real tour-de-force of movie sets across the American West. If you ever decide to follow the path I have outlined, take lots of food and water in your car! It would be a fantastic trip, truth be told, although I would start through the desert in the spring, before it gets too hot.

I would love to hear of any other movie out there that has a more complex geographic itinerary. In the meantime, I have grading I have been avoiding...

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Super Bowl Ads: A Critical Analysis (almost liveblogging)

Non geo-content warning! I'm watching my first football game of the year, and can't wait for the rest of the season. I guess I'm not conforming to type; I'm actually alone grading papers, getting a caffeine high from Mountain Dew, and consuming too much cheeseball and wheat thins. My uncensored analysis of the ads (from my Facebook entries) follows....

My son and I are discussing the symbolism and metaphor of the opening ceremonies of the great religious celebration called the "Superbowl". The Opening Procession, the High Priests (they're the ones in the striped shirts and hats) allowing God himself to select the receiving team, and the imagery of the evil vs the good (eh, the sacrificial Colts and the devoted Saints!). And no good commercials yet, and son wanders off....

I liked the Betty White/Abe Vigoda ad for Snickers. Did you know that Abe has a website that announces that he isn't dead yet? The Asteroid beer commercial wasn't too bad either. Scientists in white coats! No stereotypes there...

What's with the underwear jokes? Letterman and Leno Superbowl Party, brilliant! "Lost" parody, cute but predictable at the setup. Oh, is there a game going on?

"Man's Last Stand"? Didn't see the punchline coming; thought it was another beer commercial. Will only work once, though. First half ends with some surprises. Why are men in suits talking and talking? They remind of Talmudic scholars discussing Mosaic Law. Where are the ads and the Who? Oh, there they are. The "Who's" light show is very kinetic. The singers look kinda old. When did that happen?

Metro PCS spot seemed kinda like stereotyping, and not so funny.

Second half of some game begins. Ad analysis continues....OK, that was different. Onside kick, followed by Gordiron Knot of human beings. Almost as good as an ad. And a touchdown too. Ads are starting flag a bit. When Jesus turned the water to wine, the steward said the host saved the best for the last. Why aren't they doing that with Superbowl ads?

Nice to see the Griswolds of National Lampoon fame again, so-so punchline. Another underwear commercial, for Coke. Pretty good visuals of the savanna though. Stupid e-trade babies again. It's old.

For some reason I actually liked the Google commercial. Touching, and effective from a messaging point of view. Sometimes you can make a commercial cheaply and yet get your message across.

OK, Jack in the Box bungee jumping. I actually liked the punchline; I think I appreciate the originality of the JB ad people more than most (including terrorist Jack blowing up the Boardroom; they only showed that one a few times). They're always...uh...different.

Just when I thought I wouldn't see the Budweiser horses, there they are. With a cow. OK.

The Denny's chickens are...bizarre. I give them points for adding Old Faithful and Yellowstone in a backdrop.

The green police for Audi! That's the kind of innovation and creativity I like in a Superbowl ad, maybe the best of the day. Steve Martin being perp walked, check points for plastic containers. I've always imagined a world in which crimes against the earth were given the attention that we give to other kinds of crimes. Not that I want the green police to be knocking at (down) the door. It would just be nice to live in a world where the worst crime was littering (fondly recalling Alice's Restaurant). Thanks!

I guess GoDaddy wants to be the "controversial" sleazy ad of the year...shameless, which means it will probably work for them. Doritos seems to be spending the most dough on Superbowl ads, but hardly any have really caught my attention.

1:16 left in the game. Time for only 33 more commercials before the final...

Game over, Saints win! Pretty good game! I was pulling for the Saints, and they turned it around. I thought they were doomed after the first quarter. The ads? I'll award a B-. They mostly stayed away from fart jokes and sleaze, but lots of them just weren't creative. My favorite of the day remains Audi's green police. Pure genius!

Friday, February 5, 2010

Not Gloating, but...(and take a look at Nevada)

California has taken a lot of hits lately: horrific budget problems, paralyzed government, terrible housing market, a battered educational system, and a couple of earthquakes, but...

I look at all my geoblogospheric friends living in the path of that horrendous snowstorm sweeping across the eastern U.S., and I think to myself that California is not all that bad a place to live. In fact it is a wonderful place to live! I have to drive through the tule fogs sometimes, and it is dry, dusty and hot in the summer, but it is not far to the beach or to the snow. I can visit the snow if I choose to. I walked out of the house this morning and smelled chlorophyll in the air. The daffodils in the picture are from my front yard; they bloomed yesterday.

Back to the Other California soon. In the meantime, Nevada has some very interesting hidden places, and Silver Fox at Looking For Detachment has been exploring some of them in a nice blog series; this is a good place to start, a compendium of posts on Caliente region. The latest series is an investigation of the Jarbridge region, a very isolated corner of an isolated state. I spent several years at the University of Nevada, Reno, and grew to love this fascinating state. Check it out!

To those friends back east, good luck in the storm. I will be thinking of you all; be safe and warm!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

The Other California: Be a Geotripper Geoblogger for a Day!

Mt. Shasta from the summit of Little Mt. Hoffman on the Medicine Lake Highland

Your host in the exploration of the Other California has been to a lot of places, but he hasn't been everywhere, and he didn't have a decent camera for most of his life, so he knows that he has overlooked some absolutely fantastic localities in this incredibly diverse state. A number of you have suggested some places that should be included, and I'm all for adding some more, but I need your help (I'm talking to you Forest and Kurt, and other commenters)!

Be a Geotripper Geoblogger! Write up a short narrative about your favorite place, include a few nice pictures, and be featured here! Be seen by dozens of readers! For the time being, I am interested in the Klamath Mountains, the Cascades and Modoc Plateau (other provinces will be featured later). If you've got material on Ahjumawi Lava Springs, the Thousand Lakes Wilderness, or the Warner Mountains, I would love to hear from you (I've always been curious about them), but any interesting place is worthy!

If you would like to submit something, send the text and jpg photos to hayesg (at) mjc.edu, and I will put your submission through a harrowing vetting process with rigorous peer review, and will probably publish it about three minutes after it arrives. Of course you will receive full recognition and credit, and I will pay you exactly as much as I earn from blogging ($0.00 per hour, per day, and per week).

I look forward to seeing and featuring your favorite places!

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

The Other California: Chaos! And Jumbles Aren't Always Word Puzzles.

Continuing our exploration of the "Other California", those places in the state that don't always show up on the postcards...

We are in Lassen Volcanic National Park, a place that is on all the postcards, but the park receives roughly a tenth the visitation of a place like Yosemite, somewhere around 350,000 people a year. In the last post, we visited the volcano that isn't there, Mt. Tehama, a large stratovolcano just south of Lassen Peak that succumbed to erosion during the last 400,000 years. In the aerial photo of that post, another barren looking group of mountain peaks could be seen to the left of the Lassen Peak (likewise in the picture below). Aside from a cinder cone in the eastern part of the park that erupted in the 1600's, these cones, the Chaos Crags, are the youngest volcanoes in park, having erupted about 1,100 years ago.

The Chaos Crags are a series of six consecutively erupted plug domes similar in nature to Lassen Peak. They are named, very creatively I might add, domes A, B, C, D, E, and F. The lava, midway in composition between rhyolite and andesite, is called dacite, which usually is highly viscous (resistant to flow). As a result, the term 'lava flow' hardly applies; these volcanoes squeeze out of the ground in a manner similar to toothpaste. Seen from ground level, the domes look barren, steep, and maybe even a bit...unstable. In that context, look at the forest in the foreground of the picture below (taken from the east side of the Crags): it is an old-growth forest of fir and lodgepole pines. No soils have accumulated on the slopes of the cones in a thousand years, so almost no trees grow there.

A look from the west side of the Crags presents a different picture; notice the open forest and stunted trees. What's going on here?


The answer comes to us, courtesy of GoogleEarth (a wonderful thing, that GoogleEarth) below. From the barren side of Dome C (lower right hand side), a series of three large debris avalanches flowed northwest until they slammed into the side of Table Mountain and turned to the west. The avalanche deposit is more than two miles long, and covers 2 1/2 square miles. It blocked Manzanita Creek, forming two attractive lakes, Manzanita and Reflection. Carbon 14 dating of trees in the debris indicate an age of around 300 years, practically yesterday in geological terms. The jumbled and chaotic landscape of the avalanche is called the Chaos Jumbles (that is a great geologic name!).

I remember camping several decades ago at Manzanita Lake, and thinking what a nice campsite it was. The sites were spread out in this lumpy landscape so RV's weren't parked side-by-side. I didn't know at the time that it was because I was in the midst of a geologically recent avalanche. The National Park Service came to this realization in the 1970's (or was it right after the St. Helens eruption? Someone help me here!), and worrying about possible future events, closed a large portion of the campground, as well as some of the area facilities including a camp store and the historic Loomis Museum. In recent years the Loomis Museum has reopened (and has some great geologically themed exhibits).

A close examination of the boulders in the avalanche deposit reveals some interesting features. The dacite includes some large crystals of plagioclase, hornblende, biotite and quartz. It also includes some large blebs of an entirely different rock (called enclaves). These blebs (blobs?) are fragments of a more basaltic magma that bubbled up into the dacite magma when it was still molten. These incidents of magma mixing play a huge role in controlling and influencing the magma systems underneath the Lassen region, and may even provoke eruptions (see Clynne, 1999, for example). Research is continuing on the area.

An excellent picture of a dime (oh, and some dacite with an enclave)

References and Resources:

An excellent geologic map of Lassen and Chaos Crags is available online here.

An excellent geologic road guide to the Lassen National Park area, as well as the Sierra Nevada and Great Valley region around Chico is available from the National Association of Geoscience Teachers, Far Western Section (proceeds from the sale support a scholarship program for geology majors): Convergent Margin Tectonics in and Around Chico, Northern California, 2008 Field Conference, edited by Todd Green

Clynne, M.A., 1999, Complex magma mixing origin of rocks erupted in 1915, Lassen Peak, California: Journal of Petrology, v.40, p. 105-132.