An Aerial Tour of the Stanislaus Table Mountain

This is a short blog series of informational articles from my college faculty website that is soon to be extinct (arcane unsafe software, they say). Way back in 2002, the parent of one of my students offered me a flight of my choosing, and I knew it had to be Stanislaus Table Mountain. It is one of the more famous geological features of our region, and it is best appreciated from above. Please buckle your seatbelts, and comply with the no smoking signs...

Our flight takes us from Oakdale, a small town at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, to the Sonora-Columbia area in the Sierra Mother Lode. Our objective was to get a bird's-eye view of the Stanislaus Table Mountain, regarded by many as one of the finest examples of an inverted stream in the world. The "mountain" formed around 9 million years ago, when a latite lava flow streamed westward from vents in the vicinity of the Dardanelles, near Sonora Pass at the crest of the Sierra Nevada. 

The latite is dark-colored with phenocrysts (crystals) of plagioclase feldspar scattered throughout. It superficially resembles basalt, but is more closely related to more silica-rich lavas like andesite and dacite. The lava flowed down a river channel carved out of the tuffs and mudflow deposits of the Valley Springs  and Relief Peak formations, ending somewhere just west of Knights Ferry, having traveled some 60 miles. The lava resisted erosion better than the softer surrounding rock, and the flow eventually was exhumed, forming a winding, sinuous ridge, especially in the vicinity of Jamestown and Columbia.

Soon after takeoff, we approach Knights Ferry. The modern Stanislaus River makes a prominent loop, with orchards and agricultural fields on the left-side flood plain. The higher terraces are drier, and are used primarily for grazing. The exposed rocks in the barren areas are mostly Mehrten formation, which consists of volcanic mudflow deposits around 4 to 9 million years old.

North of Knights Ferry, exposures of the Gopher Ridge volcanics are visible. These are metamorphic rocks dating from the Jurassic period. These rocks formed as island arcs (volcanic islands like Alaska's Aleutian Islands) on the oceanic crust of the Pacific Ocean, but were scraped off against the edge of the North American continent as the rocks were subducted. The rocks have been metamorphosed, and turned almost vertical by intense east-west pressure. They are more resistant than the surrounding slates, and so stand out as a prominent ridge. The town of Copperopolis is barely visible in the upper right corner of the photo.

Farther along, we pass the site of the Harvard Mine. The open-pit mine was active from 1986 to 1994, producing about 660,000 ounces of gold from about 17 million short tons of rock. The lake in the pit is about 300 feet deep. Just prior to closing down, the miners recovered a huge mass of crystallized gold, weighing more than 40 pounds. The gold is on display at the Ironstone Winery in Murphys. The body of water in the background is New Melones Lake.

Our turnaround point was just east of the town of Sonora. The town had its beginnings in 1848 when gold was discovered by Mexican nationals who had lost their citizenship as California was signed over to the United States. The Mexicans were soon displaced ("invited to leave") by American miners.  The original town is visible in the center-right part of the photo, while the newer urban development is visible in the center and left-hand part. Scars from the on-going construction (completed long ago) of a bypass can also be seen.

Turning west, we start to see the inverted stream of Table Mountain. Highway 108 passes along the lower left hand part of the photo. Very little soil has developed on the top of the old lava flow (note the lack of trees, and widely scattered grassy areas). The sinuous nature of the flow is becoming evident.

A look out the back of the plane offers the best view of the flow. The barren-looking surface of the flow is actually a unique ecosystem of native wildflowers that are largely free of the invasive European grasses that have overwhelmed the original grasses over much of the region. It is a fascinating hike, especially in the spring after a few good rainstorms. A relatively recent hike to the top of the lava flow can be seen here: https://geotripper.blogspot.com/2015/04/where-rivers-are-upside-down-hike-to.html

Looking west, with Knights Ferry in the far distance. The flow is wider, especially where some of the lava backed up into some ancient tributary streams. Tulloch Lake on the Stanislaus River is visible to the right.

The rest of the flight was a bit more mundane, as we buzzed my house and returned to Oakdale.

My thanks to Ken Iwahashi, the pilot on our journey. 

Addendum: If you are wondering what the latite rock looks like, I went out today and got a few shots of it.

Wait a Minute...What Happened to the Rocks I Picked Out?

Something kind of extraordinary happened on campus this week. I was pausing between classes and saw a large truck and a crane downstairs in the staging area for the Great Valley Outdoor Nature Lab. The crane was dumping gigantic rocks onto the ground. "My" rock collection had arrived!! You might remember that early last month I went 'rock collecting' in the Sierra Nevada foothills for the rocks that will be part of the displays and landscaping of the outdoor. All 60 tons or so...

Source: https://media.giphy.com/media/12ScDYWbP4yoBq/giphy.gif

My response about their arrival on campus was predictable...

But if you remember the scene in "Elf" when Buddy thought Santa was in the store only to discover he was a fake, well, I had that moment too. I saw that something was off about the rocks I had selected. Something was different about them. Below was the rock that I selected a month ago, when it was 85 degrees out, and rain had not fallen in months...

And here (below) is the rock they claim I picked out. This after nearly two weeks of rain and cooler temperatures. This rock is clearly on a PALLET of LIES!

Well, okay, maybe it isn't on a pallet like the others, and maybe it is the same rock I picked out. But you can now see one of the main reasons I picked it, and why it will be sitting in a position of honor by the entrance sign to the outdoor nature lab. Not only is it a unique rock that is found in our region (the latite of Table Mountain), it is also a miniature ecosystem of mosses, lichens, grass, and other organisms. To see it, just add water!

In any case, we now have an astounding variety of the rocks that are found in our region. There is marble from the Calaveras Complex, the host rock of the many caverns that are found in the Sierra Nevada foothills.

There is a gigantic chunk of the quartz from the Mother Lode veins, the source of the gold that played such a huge (and devastating) part in the history of California. Sorry, no visible gold (although I'll keep looking).

One of the most striking rocks are the "tombstone rocks" of the Foothills Terrane, large fins of slate and phyllite that were once mud and silt on the ocean floor. The rocks were crushed against the western edge of North America, metamorphosed, and tilted vertically. We'll be putting them in the ground in the same vertical orientation. It will be a dramatic sight at the southern entrance to the lab.

The next step comes at the end of the week. I'll get to help direct the placement of the rocks! I'll try not to be insufferably picky..."Could you rotate that one about four inches? Great! Wait...I liked it better the way it was...". An update will follow.

Where the Rivers are "Upside-Down": A Hike to the Stanislaus Table Mountain

Around 10 million years ago, a lava flow surged from a volcano near present-day Sonora Pass in the Sierra Nevada. Composed of latite, but non-viscous like basalt, it flowed off the volcano and into the channel of the ancestral Stanislaus River, eventually flowing close to sixty miles. The river eventually eroded another valley and the lava flow was left relatively intact. The Sierra Nevada rose and tilted westward, and erosion removed the surrounding softer rock, leaving the former river valley as a ridge several hundred feet high. This was the origin of the Stanislaus Table Mountain, an inverted stream.

In this GoogleEarth image, the trail mostly follows the white line along the base, and then climbs the forested slope on the right.

Table Mountain forms a mesa-like ridge around Sonora and Jamestown in the Mother Lode of the Sierra Nevada. A lot of it is on private property, and as such is inaccessible for close investigation. But one portion lies within the boundary of the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation lands around New Melones Reservoir. The Bureau has constructed a trail to the summit, and that's where we were headed today on our Geology Club hike.

The trail is about 1.5 miles in length, and the first mile is a gentle grade through meadows and oak woodland. The grass was still green and wildflowers were reasonably abundant, but it isn't going to last. The soil felt bone dry, crunching under our feet. It's going to be a long, hot summer.

For the last half mile, the trail becomes increasingly steep. It's a climb of several hundred feet to the top of the lava flow. It was hot today, nearly ninety degrees, and I was appreciative that our trail was on the shaded north side of the lave flow. Oak trees provided shade, but also obscured the view but for a few choice moments.

The view provided us with confirmation of our progress up the mountain. But near the top the trail became a near scramble up the rocks. The short-cuts of use were hard to distinguish from the actual trail, as both were so steep.

The scramble was short, however, and we broke out into the barren surface of the top of the inverted stream. It was an alien landscape. Alien in the sense that it was covered mostly with actual native vegetation, unlike the grasslands below, which have been taken over almost entirely by European or Asian invasive grasses. The invasive species cannot compete in this harsh, mostly dry habitat. It was most certainly dry on this day, as we have had few rainstorms since February.

These rocky flats sometimes contain vernal pools and swales, and constitute one of California's rarest habitats. This section of the flow is one of the only protected portions of this type of landscape. The pools exist for only a few weeks at a time in the winter and spring seasons. At least one of the flower species here is found nowhere else in the world. In spite of the intense dryness, a few flowers persisted here and there, including on the shaded north slopes.

The top of the flow was a fine lookout for views in all directions.

The cliffs drop off steeply on both sides. The local casino lies directly below, and the abandoned open pit Harvard Mine lies just to the east.

To the north lies the nearly dry New Melones Reservoir.

It's a strange and wonderful environment on top of the lava flow, one that is quite different than any found elsewhere in the state. We explored the summit area for awhile, had lunch and started down the trail back to the road.

We visited Table Mountain in an entirely different time back in 2011. We arrived in a wet year, and hot on the heels of an overnight rainstorm. It's hard to describe just how different the scene was on that trip. There were pools and rivulets all over the summit area, and hundreds of small waterfalls cascaded over the cliffs. Flowers were everywhere. It was a totally different experience.

Here are a few scenes. For more, check out these posts from 2011:http://geotripper.blogspot.com/2011/03/day-in-fieldday-backwards-on-fun-having.html, http://geotripper.blogspot.com/2011/03/day-in-fieldday-backwards-on-fun-having_22.html and http://geotripper.blogspot.com/2011/03/day-in-fieldday-backwards-on-fun-having_23.html