| Source: https://www.dailykos.com/stories/2024/10/13/2276491/-Comet-C-2023-A3-Tsuchinshan-ATLAS-is-now-visible-after-sunset?pm_campaign=front_page&pm_source=trending&pm_medium=web |
| Source: https://www.dailykos.com/stories/2024/10/13/2276491/-Comet-C-2023-A3-Tsuchinshan-ATLAS-is-now-visible-after-sunset?pm_campaign=front_page&pm_source=trending&pm_medium=web |
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| Makauwahi Cave and Sinkhole as it is today |
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| Makauwahi Cave as it might have appeared 1000 B.C. Painting by Dr. Julian Hume |
| Blind cave wolf spider (descended from a surface-dwelling big-eyed spider, so it's sometimes called the no-eyed big-eyed Spider). Photo by Michelle Clark, USFWS. |
The real "catastrophe" is what followed the formation of the pond in the bottom of the sinkhole. Animals found their way into the pit, but no way out. The pit became a death trap. Over the next few thousand years huge numbers of fossils, both animals and plants, accumulated in the sinkhole. The organic rich mud (peat) grew to be one of the thickest layers within the pit (see below). Excavations since the 1990s have revealed thousands of specimens that have revealed more about the pre-human environment on Kauai than any other site on the island.
| 10,000 years of sediment, 33 feet thick, excavated at Makauwahi Cave Source: https://www.hawaii.edu/malamalama/2002/01/LostWorld.html |
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| Every Hawaiian duck or goose here is now extinct, except for the Nene, on the right. The Nene almost went extinct in modern times. Source: http://www.cavereserve.org/resources/documents/slideshow.pdf |
Humans in Hawai'i have always had to deal with the threat of tsunamis. The location of the islands near the center of the Pacific Ocean means that they can be hit by waves from all directions, generated by earthquakes in places as far-flung as Japan, Alaska, Washington, and Peru-Chile. Strangely, the largest tsunamis of all have been generated by the Hawaiian Islands themselves. Gigantic mega-slides from the flanks of the islands flowing onto the adjacent deep ocean floor have generated waves in excess of a thousand feet high! Thankfully, no such waves have occurred in historic time.
The landscape surrounding the sinkhole (above) is far, far different than the one that existed prior to a thousand years ago when the first Polynesians reached Kauai, the third catastrophe. Hardly any native vegetation remains. Humans have been successful at geo-engineering their environments to provide the food and resources they need to survive and flourish. The colonizers brought taro plants, coconuts, kukui nuts, and gourds, as well as dogs, pigs, chickens, and whether on purpose or not, the Pacific rat. These invasive plants and animals overwhelmed the native flora and fauna, driving many species to extinction, or to much more limited ranges.
| Source: http://www.cavereserve.org/resources/documents/slideshow.pdf |
Still, from a human point of view, a certain equilibrium had been achieved, even if the native species went into a steep decline. Humans had been expanding across the Pacific islands for centuries, and knew what resources they would need to bring with them when they found new islands to colonize. They also had a social structure that was rather efficient and strict (however unjust to our present sensibilities) that allowed the native Hawaiians to thrive in their new environment, largely operating within the carrying capacity of the lands they were occupying.
The fourth catastrophe began unfolding in 1778 when Captain James Cook and his crew arrived. The full extent of this event is also revealed in the sediments of Makauwahi Cave, but we'll take that up in part 3.The authoritative source of information on Makauwahi Cave is the book Back to the Future in the Caves of Kaua`i: A Scientist’s Adventures in the Dark; David A. Burney, Yale University Press, 2010.
People visit Hawai'i for a great many reasons. There are the stereotypical reasons: beautiful beaches, surfing, palm trees, luaus and so on. There are other reasons: a wish to learn about the culture of the many people groups who call the island home, some of them for upwards of a thousand years. There are others who find fascination with volcanoes and lava flows. And the biology! The isolation of the islands has resulted in the evolution of hundreds, even thousands of species that exist nowhere else in the world.
I'm willing to bet that very few people come to the islands to tour the limestone caverns...
Limestone? Caverns? On the Hawaiian Islands?
| Outcrop of limestone (!?) on the Mahaulepu Coast of Kauai. |
There are actually a great many caves on the islands, but they are not the kind of caves that most people find familiar. They are called lava tubes, and they form when a lava river forms a ceiling of congealed basalt. When the lava flow ends, it drains out the tube leaving behind a long cylindrical cave. Hawaii has one of the longest such caves in the world, Kazimura, with a total length of 40 miles. The much shorter Nahuku Cave (formerly Thurston Cave) in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park is well-known to park visitors.
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| Nahuku Lava Tube in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park |
But limestone caverns are not a familiar sight on the islands. Before my last trip I didn't know that there were any such caves in Hawai'i. For one, a limestone cavern requires limestone and the islands are composed largely of volcanic basalt. There are coral reefs around the islands in many places and they are composed of calcium carbonate (calcite), the mineral that makes up limestone. But coral forms at sea level, and caverns form from the dissolving action of fresh water, usually above sea level. And the islands are sinking, not rising, so on the face of it there seems to be no opportunity for the development of large bodies of limestone, much less caverns in Hawaii.
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| Photo courtesy of Allie Brown |
And yet it happened here, on the island of Kauai (and also, upon researching the subject, in downtown Honolulu; check out Moiliili underground caverns if you dare). It was a unique situation, a cavern formed in a sand dune environment. The cavern has been known as Warrior's Cave, Grove Farm Cave, Limestone Quarry Cave and others, but some extensive research revealed the ancient name (from an 1885 student essay) to be Makauwahi, or "source of the smoke".
Sand dunes hardly seem like a place for cavern formation because most of the time sand is composed of quartz and other silicate minerals. Hawai'i's sands are not. They are composed sometimes of basalt fragments (the black sand beaches), but the white or yellow sandy beaches of the islands are mostly composed of bits and pieces of coral reefs, in other words, calcite, the ingredient making up limestone. On the south side of Kauai near the extensive resort complexes of Poipo Beach there are some extensive coral sand beaches. Over the millennia the constant trade winds have blown sand off the beach inland, forming sand dunes above the shoreline. This happened in stages starting about 435,000 years ago during an interglacial period when sea level was higher than today.
| Cliff of eolian limestone showing the tilted layers of cross-bedded dune sands at Makauwahi. |
When the dunes were stabilized by vegetation, thick layers of soil developed on the surface. Beneath the surface the sand was lithified (glued together) by dissolved calcite and silica derived from the overlying soil. Then the climate changed and dunes moved in again. Over time thick layers of solid limestone resulted from the petrified dunes.
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| Makauwahi Cave, courtesy of Tylor Ghaffari |
The soil layers provide the last part of the process, carbonic acid. Mixed with groundwater, the acid ate away at the lower layers eventually producing the caverns themselves. Later on, dripping and flowing water produced a variety of cavern formations (speleothems) like stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstone. Makauwahi Cave has around 500 feet of passageways, accessed through a small passageway. And so we paid a visit during our field studies exploration of Kauai.
The thing is, if Makauwahi were simply a cave it would merit some attention, but that is not what makes it extraordinary. Makauwahi was the site of three catastrophes, one of which was local, and two others that were island-wide. And from these catastrophes, an amazing story unfolds about life on Kauai, past, present and future. That will be the subject of part two, coming soon (I hope)!
I used to talk to my students about the geological hazards that we face as inhabitants of California's Great Valley (or Central Valley, for those who don't appreciate its actual greatness). I would go down the list of things to worry about: earthquakes, droughts, wildfires, volcanic eruptions, flooding, and so on. But then I somewhat jokingly described things we didn't have to worry about such as hurricanes (Florida's problem), tsunamis (a problem for coastal cities), tornadoes (Oklahoma's problem), and mass wasting (also known by the generic term 'landsliding').
Unfortunately, over the years I've become aware that some of those unlikely hazards actually can be a factor in living in the valley. We've had a fair number of tornadoes in recent years, including two that came within a few miles of my house (they weren't anything like the monsters of Tornado Alley in the Midwest, but still a bit scary). A powerful tropical storm hit Southern California last summer that came up just short of being a hurricane, and the heavy downpours were statewide. And then there is mass wasting (slope failures and landslides). I know of at least two fatalities caused by mass wasting in the last few years. One was a homeless person who had dug a tunnel into a river embankment that later collapsed, and another was a person who was driving along a freeway in heavy rains when the freeway embankment collapsed as a mudflow and spread across the lanes causing a fatal accident.
The Great Valley is famously flat so mass wasting doesn't seem to be much of a danger to those who live here, since landslides and other slope failures require, well, a slope to happen. But the valley is not quite so flat as people may think. The valley is 400 miles long, and most of it is close to sea level. Much of it is low-lying river floodplains, but other sections sit at slightly higher elevations because of complex history of climate change and glacial ice ages over the last 1,000,000 years. These bluffs and terraces protect my city and others nearby because even the worst floods are contained within the floodplains and do not spill over onto the terrace surfaces where cities like Modesto and Turlock have been built near the Tuolumne River.
So you want to demonstrate a volcanic eruption for your field geology course, and are unsure how to proceed? Let the crew (of one) here at Geotripper help you to plan out the very best eruption experience for your students! There are several important steps and considerations:
1) Pick a volcano
This is a pretty important first step. Some volcanoes can be very dangerous, and we at Geotripper feel that safety is a hugely important consideration. We have chosen the Big Island of Hawai'i for our demonstration, as eruptions there TEND to be on the quiet side, although there are important exceptions.
| Kilauea Caldera and Kilauea Iki in the distance |
2) Do a site evaluation
Take a hike out to the potential eruption site. This is kind of critical, because we want to choose a site that is isolated and away from buildings and populated areas. Yet we also want the site to be visible once the eruption begins, since this is the whole point of planning such things.
| Hiking out to the Ka'u Desert ("Footprints Trail") on May 29, 2024 |
3) Consult with the local volcanic deities:
| Painting of the Hawaiian goddess Pele at the Kilauea Visitor Center with the artist, Arthur Johnson (Source: NPS). |
Once again a critical factor. One doesn't conduct eruptions without the permission and cooperation of the deities that inhabit the place. In our current example we are dealing with Pele, also known as Pele-honua-mea ("Pele of the sacred land") and Ka wahine ʻai honua ("The earth-eating woman").
A side note: the gist of this post is tongue-in-cheek, but I take Pele pretty seriously. Check out my interaction with a mysterious woman on the flanks of Kilauea a few years ago. Who was she??
4) Start the Field Trip
Taking twenty students to the Hawaiian Islands for two weeks is no small task, and we here at Geotripper strongly suggest planning the trip many months in advance of the eruption. Remember to consider such logistics as hotels, transportation, airline flights, food, and group interpersonal interactions.
5) Educate your students on the basics of volcanoes and vulcanism
There are many ways to do this. One of my favorites is to pay a visit to the
Hawaiian Volcano Observatory (currently based in Hilo, Hawai'i after their original home on the brink of the Kilauea caldera was damaged by an eruption in 2018). Our expert host provided an excellent introduction to the methods and technology of volcano monitoring.
6) Subtly prepare the group for the experience of the eruption
This step requires some public relation skills. We don't want to have the experience spoiled by high expectations and the like. We want our group to be both surprised and prepared when the eruption happens. There are a number of ways to do do this. For instance, have them look at seismic records and see if they notice the uptick in earthquakes in recent days. Ask a Hawaii Volcanoes National Park ranger leading questions like "why did you close the Devastated Area Trail yesterday?" You can make jokes, like "Wouldn't it be interesting if an eruption were to happen while we are on the trip?". Don't overdo it, though.
7. Conduct the Eruption
In many ways this is the easiest step, since the Earth does all the work. If you arrange for the eruption overnight, you can plan on an early departure from the hotel to beat the tourists to all the best overlooks. If you have prepared in the way that we have put forth here, your students will be duly impressed even if they can't stick things into the lava flow or even see spewing lava. Seeing the ash and steam rising from the distant rift zone will be more than enough!
Oh, I see a hand in the back...what was your question? How do we actually cause the eruption to happen at the perfect time? Oh, it's kind of complicated. We don't really have time enough to explain...
8. Provide a cooling down period| Source: USGS Hawaii Volcanoes Observatory |