vagabonding across the 39th parallel, and after the previous day of exploration at Black Canyon of the Gunnison, we found ourselves encamped at a KOA in Ouray at the foot of the spectacular mountain range.
Our rules for the road were to not plan too many days ahead, seek out places we had never been to previously, and stop for pictures whenever the road demanded pictures. This road philosophy had worked out surprisingly well so far, but we were about to discover the limitations of our plan.
The previous evening should have clued us in; we drove up to the KOA, a very pleasant place I had camped at before, only to find that they were full. It was after 9:00 PM, and we really had nowhere else to go, so the proprietors allowed us to squeeze, literally, into a small space with the motorcycles. There were a lot of them, and the drunken conversations around us dragged on into the early hours of the morning. Sunrise always brings new hope, but this particular morning the sunrise was accompanied by the staccato roar of Harley Hogs.
We had just crossed the Dallas Divide and were headed down the canyon when we discovered Yellow Line Fever. White line fever is that hypnotic state sometimes achieved by drivers who've been on the road too long. It usually involves trucks going too far, too fast, with disastrous results. Our yellow line fever was caused by driving waaay too slow, following a truck painting the yellow stripes on the highway along a narrow canyon that had no pull-outs for what seemed like miles. Our meandering vagabonding demeanour was evaporating fast. We had tried to avoid having a schedule, but we were fast falling behind that schedule that we didn't exactly have. There was a lot of barren countryside ahead of us.
Was it a bad day? No day is completely bad when you are on the road. It was a day a bit less spectacular than others, but we learned what there was to see in the blank spot on the map in the Utah-Colorado borderlands. There was a favorite moment: we discovered the town of Bedrock! We couldn't find Fred or Wilma or Dino, but there was the sign...